Showing posts with label LOTW Article. Show all posts
Showing posts with label LOTW Article. Show all posts

Thursday, 4 February 2010

Serious Eats - Baked vs Fried Wings

Chris over at Nibble Me This sent me a link to a recent experiment by Serious Eats by Blake Royer of baked vs fried wings. And I won't lie, I'm a little jealous. Because I was planning to do the same thing in the near future. I'm still going to. Just my pictures won't look as good.

Dammit.

It also ties into another article I'm writing right now about Buffalo wings and authenticity. Blake covers what makes an authentic Buffalo wing, but dares to ask if baking the wing really makes it any less a tasty wing.

He did 4 tests:

"Batch 1: The Anchor Bar's Original Frying Method. My first batch was drawn directly from the Anchor Bar's website itself. They suggest frying in oil, but offer the alternative directions: "Bake at 425°F for 45 minutes until completely cooked and crispy. Put in bowl, add sauce and toss." Done.

Batch 2: Frying then Sauce-Painting. My second batch was almost the same as the first but with one change: with ten minutes remaining in the cooking time, I painted the wings with sauce in hopes that the flavor would bake into the meat and form a glaze.

Batch 3: Marinating then Baking. For the third batch, I tossed the uncooked chicken in Buffalo sauce and let it marinate for an hour or so, then baked them, hoping the sauce would not only form a delicious glaze, as in batch 2, but also flavor the interior of the meat.

Batch 4: Flour-Coating then Baking. Maybe just because I'm spiteful of "authenticity" claims, I did a final batch tossed with flour before baking. Spitefulness aside, many recipes call for flour and I liked the idea of creating an even crisper exterior to soak up the sauce."


I won't say who won according to Blake, you'll just have to check out the article for yourself. I'll just say I think the evaluation methods are off, but until I do my own comparison will I know for sure.


Wednesday, 15 October 2008

WK Guide to Classifying Chicken Wings



Here it is, the diffinitive guide to classifying chicken wings. Surprisingly, most people do not understand the difference between chicken wings, their cooking methods, styles or the variations that have come about from the popularity of this cooked chicken extremity. After seeing, hearing and watching people confuse and misrepresent what a Buffalo Chicken Wing was, I had to come up with a way to educate and inform about the greatest food out there.


While chicken wings have been apart of the food world as long as we as humans have been eating chicken, it is important to understand that the phenomenon of WINGS comes from the Anchor Bar in Buffalo New York in the 1960's. From that fatefull day, chicken wings have become an important member in the lexicon of popular cuisine. Buffalo Wings were born, then Hot Wings were developed, and then an explosion of the styles and methods of cooking have graced the world. We need to understand the differences so that we can be clear what kind of food we are talking about.


I am breaking this classification down into 4 sections: Wing Parts, Cooking Methods, Wing Styles & Wing Variations.

WING PARTS
Let's start by looking at the physical wing itself. Some restaurants/chefs may split it into three parts, two, or as one jumbo unit.

















  1. THE WINGETTE - aka FLAT, MID-WING JOINT
    -Part of the wing with 2 bones, and delicious stretched skin.
  2. THE DRUMMETTE - aka DRUMMY, MINI DRUMSTICK
    -Part of the wing that resembles a chicken leg: bulbous meaty end
  3. THE TIP - aka NUB,
    -Part of the wing that is just a tip. Usually discarded (or put into soup etc), but may remain attached. People unfamiliar with the tip may fear it is a mutant part of the chicken, or that it is simply a waste, but can be a small source of crispy joy.

Wing sizes vary from restaurant to restaurant and grocery store to butcher shop. Most of the time, bigger is better - but always try to avoid frozen.



COOKING METHODS

There are many ways in which to cook a wing. These are the most mainstream ways to make wings, but there are always people inventing new ways to prepare them.

























  1. DEEP FRIED
    -In a deep fryer or pot filled with oil (different oils will produce different flavours) cooked at extremely high temperatures.
    -'Traditional method for "Buffalo Wings"
    -Produces the most crispy wings (WK prefered method of wing cookery)

  2. a) BAKED - aka ROASTED
    -Placed on a rack or a pan and roasted/baked, usually at high temperatures.

    b) BAKED with SAUCE IN
    -Sauced wings that are baked, creating a more flavoured skin.

  3. GRILLED
    -Wings cooked over or on a direct source of heat such as a BBQ (charcoal or gas) or a grate (also known as a grill) over a fire.
  4. STIR FRIED
    -Frying wings quickly at high temperatures in a frying pan or wok in a thin layer of oil.
    -More common in Asian style of wings.

  5. SLOW COOKED
    -Chicken is cooked in a crock-pot/slow cooker or pot in sauce on low heat for many hours, producing a 'fall-off-the-bone' soft skinned wing.

  6. BROASTED
    -A pateneted technique that involves a marinated and breaded piece of chicken, then deep fried and pressure cooked
    -Not a common technique but tasty results

  7. SMOKED
    -Like grilling, chicken is cooked over an open heat source, but it is the smoke produced (from various types of wood chips/logs) that actually flavours and cooks the wings by drying them out.

CHICKEN WING STYLES

There are hundreds of ways to serve wings once they have been cooked, or even before. Here are the 8 main catagories in which to serve wings.
























  1. BUFFALO STYLE
    -Wing is deep fried, then tossed in a butter/margerine and pepper sauce (Frank's or Crystal). That is all. If you bake, dust, batter or sauce any other way, it is NOT a Buffalo Wing, it becomes a 'HOT WING'.
    -Traditionally served with blue cheese dip with celery and/or carrot sticks to dip.
    -Made famous by the Anchor Bar in Buffalo New York, hence the term 'Buffalo' wing
    -Residents of Buffalo when refering to 'wings' often mean 'Buffalo wings', but this is misleading as there are hundreds of variation of 'wings'. Hence this classification guide.

  2. SAUCED
    -Any wing prepared, then covered in sauce.
    -Hundreds of sauce possibilities. Most common include: mild/medium/hot/suicide, BBQ sauce, honey mustard, curry, garlic-parmesean, sweet Thai, maple. Please note that no matter how many people order Honey Garlic, the LOTW blog does not consider Honey Garlic a chicken wing ~ it is an abomination.

  3. BREADED TYPE
    -Preperation of wing involves a coating added on before cooking. There are several variations:

    >DUSTED
    , aka DREDGED: Raw wing is lightly tossed in flour (maybe other spices as well) before cooking.

    >BREADED: Wing is dipped in liquid (beat egg, butter milk, hot sauce etc.), then tossed in a dry ingredient (flour, cornmeal etc.) before cooking to create a crispy outside.

    >BATTERED: Wing is dipped into batter (dry ingredient & liquid combination) before
    frying. Different batters include Beer Batter or Tempura. Least common breading technique.

  4. ASIAN
    -A huge generalization, mostly known from North American Chinese establishments.
    -Wings are generally stir-fried in a wok (or deep fried first) with various ingredients (often garlic, shallots, peppers etc) as well as a spicy/sweet/sour/salty sauce (ie soy sauce, teriyaki, honey etc) combination.
    -Korean Fried Chicken is a glowingly popular dish that is close to both Breaded type and Sauced. I have yet to try but yearn to so much.
    -Indonesian ? Maylasian? Japanese? Sure - but I can't report on them yet.

  5. KFC
    -Wing that is seasoned with secret herbs and spices, breaded, then pressure fried. Some place may simply deep fry.

  6. DRY SPICED
    -Wing (which may be naked, dusted or breaded), fried, than tossed with dry seasonings. Sometimes wings are spiced before cooking.
    -Common seasoning include: Cajun, dry salt, lemon pepper, Mexican, and various potato chip flavours.

  7. GOURMET
    -Wings that are served in posh environments with flavours rarely catering to the masses
    -Wing is often made into a lollipop configuration (meat and skin is all pulled to one end of the bone).

  8. NAKED
    -Chicken wing that has no sauces, seasonings or breading before or after the cooking process.
    -Most often ordered from a restaurant so that a consumer may sauce or season themselves.
CHICKEN WING VARIATIONS


It took over 20 years for modern 'wings' to become part of the popular cuisine in North America, but once it did, it didn't stop at the wing.

























  1. BONELESS WINGS
    -Chicken that is cooked and sauced like a chicken wing (often Buffalo style sauce) but has no bones. It never refers to a wing that has actually been de-boned.
    -Chicken types may include: Chicken Finger/Fillet, Chicken Nugget/Fling and Pop Corn Chicken
    -May be served on top of a salad
  2. BUFFALO CHICKEN SANDWICH
    -Chicken burger/finger that is tossed in a Buffalo wing sauce, often topped with blue cheese dressing
    -May be served as a wrap in a tortilla.
    -The term Buffalo refers to sauce, not the cooking method.
  3. BUFFALO CHICKEN LEG
    -A chicken leg or thigh that is deep fried, then tossed in Buffalo wing sauce, just like a Buffalo Wing.
  4. BUFFALO WING DIP
    -Appetizer dip generally consisting of cream cheese, blue cheese, shredded cheese, shredded chicken breast, and hot sauce (usually Frank's) that is baked and served warm.
    -No actual wings are involved in the dip.
  5. BUFFALO WING SOUP
    -Creamy, chicken soup (may have wings in it, but more likely pieces of chicken meat) that has Buffalo wing sauce.
  6. SNACKS
    -Wide range of snacking foods that have a Buffalo wing flavour.
    -May include, but not limited to: Potato Chips, Pretzel Bits, Pop Corn, Crackers, Nuts etc.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


So as you can see, Chicken Wings are not just some simple bar food. Complex, diversified, tasty, they truly are a marvel of modern cuisine.

Monday, 14 April 2008

DIPS: Blue Cheese vs Ranch vs ???

When I close my eyes and envision what an order of wings should be, I see a large basket with some sort of checkered pattern that is covered in a heap of red soaked, crispy wings. In the corner of the basket is a twin healthy side of cruditee'd celery and carrots, and with them, is a small plastic container of . . . dip.

Having had a string of strange dip while staying in Ottawa, I began to think more and more about the oft overlooked accompaniments that chicken wings have. Traditionally, wings are served with a side of Bleu Cheese; but a growing, and many argue a majority of individuals prefer Ranch. This has developed into a debate amongst wing lovers about what is appropriate and what tastes best with wings.






VS




By now, everyone knows the story of Wing Saint Teressa Bellisimo and the manifestation of the Buffalo chicken wing, where she served Blue Cheese dressing on the side. The key reason for adding a dip on the side was to cut the heat that is inherent in a Hot Wing. The spicy acid is neutralized with a creamy base.

How people use the dip is completely different. For me personally, in my purist roots, a chicken wing is never to be dipped into a cream dip. One should never take away from the flavour of a good wing sauce. That being said, I have occasionally dipped to cover up a bad wing sauce. I want to be able in the midst of the pain of the wing to taste the sauce.

But for many people, they just can't handle the heat. Others are ignorant of the individual flavours and have no problem mixing, not appreciating the subtle nuances that make a chicken wing. I look to the dip and veggies as a nice yin to my spicy wing yang, meeting together to embrace the universe in a perfect flavour combination to be enjoyed in close proximity, but not together at the same time. I will eat two or three wings, then some veggies to sooth the mouth. Actually, for those that may have watched my wing eating rituals, the first thing I do when my wings arrive is to sample the veggies and dip to cleanse the palette.






I began to search around the internet, looking at fellow wing-bloggers thoughts on the subjects, average Joe's, and other sources. It was surprising how many web results present themselves in this great debate. I even came across a website that had an online poll about which was better (see the results at the end of this log). Fellow wing blogger Phred over at The Chicken Wing Project, put his two cents in on the side of Ranch: "on my Wings, I strongly prefer Ranch of the two. Why? I don't like getting the chunks of Blue Cheese on my Wings when I eat them. Remember, I enjoy Blue Cheese on a salad or a burger, so it has little to do with the taste. " Michael Drum Stix over at Bling Bling Chicken Wing takes a bigger analysis of the two, coming up with a list of when it is appropriate to dip a wing:
  1. You are trying to accomplish some sort of personal goal. For example: breaking the amount of chicken wings (of the hottest flavor of course) you can eat. Perhaps you might win a prize or some recognition, like getting on the wall on Plucker’s or something. Exception: If the establishment prohibits you to use ranch or blue cheese to break a record.

  2. If you think that no one around you is knowledgeable about wings, therefore you can get away with it.

  3. If the wings are such poor quality, that you have to use ranch or blue cheese to cover up the taste.

  4. If you are trying new a flavor of wings, but you are suspicious about how they might taste.

  5. If you are French and spell blue cheese bleu cheese. I take this one back; it’s never ok to spell it bleu. [LOTW Author's note, I do refer to it as Bleu Cheese, but that is honouring my Canadian bilingualism]
What I found in my research is that there are a lot of opinions out there that are fanatical about both main dips.




BLEU CHEESE:


The dip of choice for the purist. Classy, cultivated, cultured. Wikipedia says Bleu Cheese is:

"cow's milk, sheep's milk, or goat's milk cheeses that has had Penicillium cultures added so that the final product is spotted or veined throughout with blue or blue-green mould, and carries a distinct smell. Some blue cheeses are injected with spores before the curds form and others have spores mixed in with the curds after they form. Blue cheeses are typically aged in a temperature-controlled environment such as a cave. " It also has the "characteristic flavor of blue cheeses tends to be sharp and a bit salty. The smell of this food is widely considered to be pungent, even compared to other cheeses. " Add in mayo, sour cream and a few more ingredients and you have BC dressing.

My thoughts is that BC tends to be a more mature flavour. Because it is pungent, it becomes a more acquired taste. Here's what various internet users had to say:



"If you're really going for actual buffalo wing style, using ranch dressing would be just wrong."

"I prefer blue cheese but I had my first taste of wings on the east coast and it seems the east only serves them with blue cheese. It seems ranch is more of a west coast dip"


"Everything's better with bleu cheese!"Suicide wings with Blue Cheese!!!! mmmmmm! I think that's what I'll have for lunch!"


"Bleu cheese, all the way. the chunkier, the better!"


"Bleu cheese is the bomb"


"Anything beside Blue Cheese (with authentic Buffalo wings) is SACRILEGE!!!!""Definitely blue cheese. Ranch is an impostor!"





vs RANCH:

The challenger. Not as hoite toite; a real dip of the people. Ranch Dressing is:
"a condiment made of buttermilk or sour cream, mayonnaise, minced green onion, garlic powder, and other seasonings mixed into a sauce." "In much of America, ranch is a common dipping sauce for things like french fries, chicken wings and other fried foods. "


Ranch is the everyman of the food world: cool ranch Doritos, ranch snack wraps, burgers and salads. And people dip almost anything into ranch. The Ranchists seemed to be less vocal in their comments, often simply stating, "Ranch" without specific reason why. They just knew.

"I live for Ranch Sauce if it's REAL thick..."

"Ew no blue cheese. Ranch all the way!!"




"Ranch goes with anything."

"Ranch!! I love Ranch! I don't like blue cheese"



"RANCH (especially if it is Ken's Ranch or Hidden Valley Ranch)"

"Ranch. Blue cheese should be outlawed as a tool of terrorists"


vs SOUR CREAM? (and other alternatives):

I've come across the odd sour cream as a dip (especially in Ottawa). It has no flavour, not really. It can only be good for cooling down the heat.


I don't believe sour cream should be on the side of wings: it should be for nachos, potato skins and other potato related dishes. It has no place amongst the wings.


Its just a blob of cool milk product.


Really, sour cream is only good inside other dips. Now some wing places have attempted to change up the usual with their own unique take on dips:


The Manhattan Capone wings at Allen's in Toronto are served with a sour cream dip that had a spicy blue cheese added. Unlike the syrupy blue cheese out of a bottle at most wing joints, this was a dip with thick chunks but a plain sour cream base.


Wing Machine also has a 'bleu cheese' type dip, with no actual cheese, and a flavour that seems to combine both ranch and BC.


In the cooking realm, the Pioneer Woman decided to mix both Ranch & BC together to make an outstanding style dip. Why choose when you can have both?
What about Dill Dip? Can't forget Dill Dip!!! So good.

FINAL THOUGHTS & ARGUMENTS:

In the US, it appears that individuals attempt to regionalize the debate about who eats what and why. North vs South. East vs West. Up here in Canada, there seems to be little rhyme or reason. But then, wings come in a diversity of styles too: Buffalo style, baked, bbq'd, rubbed, breaded etc. which means that people everywhere have a different reasons and different tastes.

In the online poll I found, the answer surprised me:


Yes, Ranch seems to be winning by a majority. More people prefer Ranch to BC. However, no one classified this debate for wing dipping. When it comes to salad, my standard choice would be Ranch too.

The debate will never be answered. Of course, it all comes down to personal taste. There is no real right or wrong and only you, the citizen of the Wing Nation can make the right choice. The important thing is that people are eating wings.

For me, coating my carrot stick in classic Bleu Cheese is part of the ritual, the event that is eating wings. But when I want to dip my wing, its an extra side of suicide that makes this the right choice.