DUNN's EXPRESS - Ottawa ON

- RIP - This Location is NOW CLOSED but re-oped as Markie's Smoked Meat -

This is part of my #lotwsummercatchup 2019 reviews.

Dunn's is an interesting restaurant franchise. Myer Dunn opened the original deli in Montreal in 1927 selling the now famous Montreal Smoked Meat. Over the years the Dunn family began to franchise and now there are locations all over Canada, with Montreal and Ottawa having the most. While the logos and much of the food is the same, it's my understanding that there isn't much unifying all of the individual stores.

Locations have been closing and opening a lot in recent years. Back a few years ago, a new concept opened on Richmond road in Westboro (Ottawa) called Dunn's Express. Focusing less on a dine-in experience and more on take-out and to go. I never checked them out. Meanwhile, on Carling ave, there's a little strip mall with lots of eats. When I first came to Ottawa around 2007 there was a pizza place I loved getting wings called The Pizza Shop. They closed years ago, but next door at that time was a Chinese Take-Out chain called Ho-Lee-Chow. They went out of business, and it became Robz, an awesome sandwich joint. Eventually his (there was a chef Rob) operation moved to a pool hall (now also closed), and renovations began for a new place called Bambino's. Something happened there because despite the 'Coming Soon' signs, I don't even think it actually opened. Then, the Dunn's in Westboro closed up shop and they re-opened where Bambino's/Robz/Ho-Lee-Chow was.

I really like Dunn's in general. Smoked Meat, Kosher dill pickles, fries - what's not to love? LJ and I have grabbed take-out from this location a couple times (they have a great take-out special) and one of the last times I was in, I noticed wings on the menu. I decided I would have to come back and check them out.

One day for lunch I stopped in with full intentions of getting the wings. This location is bright, clean, and modern looking but fitting in with the Dunn's deli aesthetic. You order up at the counter as this is mostly to-go, but there are several 4 seater tables as well as single counter seating at the front window. At your table are the necessary condiments for a Dunn's experience: 2 types of mustard, vinegar, ketchup, and salt and pepper. The place was really busy, both with dine-in customers and take-out.

There were two dudes working, and the younger dude came to take my order, he was very friendly, but also a bit awkward. I could see wings on the menu screen up above, but not the details. I told him I wanted the wings, 1 pound. He didn't bring up sauces, but neither did I. I got a drink and took a seat.

The kitchen is pretty open so you can watch them carve up the meat and sandwiches. This also meant I could clearly hear those wings go into the deep fryer. It didn't take long and pretty soon I could hear that sound of crispy wings hit the bowl. Then the young dude approached me and asked what 'dressing' I would like. Not seeing any choice anywhere I asked about my options. "Uh, we have hot" he said, "and Hot. Ha ha, I joke. We have Honey Mustard" He meant Honey Garlic. I went with Hot, and then he told me enthusiastically "I will bring it sauce on the side" and I was like, OK? Confused as to why but I went with it.

Out came a very golden fried pile of wings with my Hot on the side and a Kosher dill pickle.

I was pretty excited about this. I was going to order a pickle on the side because I love these extremely tart dills. They are actually a great side to what is usually a spicy savoury wing experience.

The wings come by the pound, and a Dunn's pound is about 10 wings. They come split by flats and drums, but I think I got more flats in this order. There were no bone plates or wetnaps, just napkins. As a take-out joint (and one that is focused on sandwiches) there is no wing night.

The wings are small. Nothing more I can say about that. Small. But to make up for it, they were super crispy. The skin was that nice, crackling crisp that you want in a fried wing.

The meat wasn't that tender. The bones had a hard time to be pulled apart. I'm sure the wings are frozen because how often are people ordering wings here?

I tried a wing on it's own before adding the sauce. The wing had no flavour itself. No seasoning. I thought they would be salty and good plain, but I was wrong. They look so good on their own but they definitely need sauce.

The Hot sauce on the side was I think, Frank's Buffalo, or even like a President's Choice Buffalo wing sauce. It was much more orange and buttery than straight hot sauce. Weird that they don't mention this as the sauce choice.

So with that, I just dumped the little container over all the wings. There was enough sauce to get each wing pretty wet, but I would have preferred them to have been tossed before being served. Especially after the wings themselves were so plain.

The sauce has that artificial butter flavour that is added to the hot sauce. I'm ok with this (although homemade Buffalo sauce is much better), this isn't bad. It's almost creamy, but it still retains a low level kick. They were tasty enough.

FINAL SCORE:

These were ok wings. Really crispy and a tasty sauce. But they are small, slightly tough, and pretty flavourless on their own. I think they really missed an opportunity to do some unique wings flavours here like Honey Mustard, or a dry spiced wing of Montreal Steak Spice (which would have gone great with the Kosher dill) or even a Kosher dill pickle wing! Anyway, their ok, I'd get them again, but I'd much rather have the smoked meat.  6.5/14

Dunn's Express
1679 Carling Ave, Ottawa ON (And other location)
dunnsexpress.co